Garden Plan! (by Harvey and Anita – Awesome Christians!)
Garden Pictures!!! (more coming)
This is a Picture of a “PATHETIC” Garden. Don’t do this!!
Traditional Gardens in the backyard are simple rows!!!
Seasoned Gardeners may clear an acre in the back 40.
Warning! In 2017, SalvationCanada foresees food shortages
and food prices through the roof. Indeed, it is here NOW!
$10.00 dollars for a head of regular cauliflower?! Ouch!
$10.00 dollars for a single plain crap tomato?! Yikes!
Restaurants eliminating fruit/vegetables from the meal?!
This is happening NOW!!
Unless each individual sets their mind and will to learn
and grow their own vegetables…life could get rough.
Without vegetables, all kinds of diseases and disabilities
will manifest. A vitamin pill helps, but only so much.
We NEED our safe nutritious veggies, every day!
And no toxic pollution, ie lead, in the soil
(which is taken up into the veggies we eat!)
In other words, ONLY ORGANIC!!!
***THIS IS A TERRIBLE TRUTH!
WITHOUT ORGANIC SAFE NUTRITIOUS VEGGIES,
WE DISEASE AND DIE!!
But MORE than Only Organic, we need the soil to be Nutrient Rich.
Using Peat Moss, Lime, Mushroom Manure or Sheep Manure, Seaweed, ect,
SalvationCanada states this is a MUST! Prepare your soil properly!
All nutrients must be added. Example: Iodine. It is Not found in
almost any soil in North America, except near the Ocean. (of course)
Hence the need for powdered seaweed. (Not from Japan – radioactive)
Without Iodine, we would all have Goiter Disease.
Without Iodine, woman would disease, hyperthyroidism, cancer, and die.
(and no, salt has a little Iodine added but it evaporates in months)
(and yes a vitamin pill will help. But what happens if pills fail?)
Be careful on vitamin pills. What is the verified food source for
each of the ingredients? Organic? Check them out carefully.
Seaweed, from a safe source….powdered and in a pail. $150.00
Stock up, because all these soil fertilizers are needed each and EVERY year.
Oh Ya. This is a lot of work. (Recruit some helpers)
1,000 square feet of garden feeds about one person on average.
Decide how many people you are going to feed.
It takes a ton of work to begin this garden plan, so be sure
you have many extra helpers. (Some will quit after one hard day)
Also, there is so much to learn, you will have to spend much
of your spare time learning, instead of socializing. Right?
Count the cost before you begin, and don’t aim too high.
2,000 square feet to begin is a suggested maximum, unless
you have a dozen solid committed able-bodied weekend warriors!
Really, it is extremely time and labor intensive work!!!
So put away the golf clubs, forget about having your nails done,
be ready to be called crazy, and jump in with both feet!!
Welcome to Your Survival Garden Plan and Template!
Draw a square or rectangle on a sheet of paper, for your space.
(Assuming you have a clear backyard area, not too near home)
Classic Method is to divide into 4 squares. This is mainly for
proper crop rotation which is VERY important for nutrition and
for preventing disease, pests, ect. Each “Family” of crops
must be rotated to a new bed for 4 years. Simple.
Start with the “TOES”
Potatoes, Tomatoes, Peppers, Eggplant, 1/4 of your garden.
Then go to “LEAVES”
Lettuces, Kale, Spinach, Okra, Herbs, and “Roots”
Beets, Onions, Garlic, Carroots, lol, ect, about 1/4.
That is Half the Garden filled all ready!
Peas, Beans, lentils, soybeans, ect, about 1/8.
Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, ect, about 1/8.
Squash, Gourds, Melons, cucumbers, ect, about 1/8.
Greens, and whatever else you like, the last 1/8.
1,000 sq feet to 2,000 square feet is recommended to begin.
Up to One Acre if you have a dozen loyal, faithful people to help.
FULL SUN ONLY FOR YOUR GARDEN!
Remember to leave 1-2 foot walking paths in between.
Throw straw on top of everything except plants. This helps keep
the moisture in, disease down, and looks nice!
This rough template will get you started.
Very ultra-important is the spacing. If roots touch,
the plant may stop growing as it should. Space!
Tomatoes for example would prefer 3’x 3’x 3′.
2’x 2′ is a minimum. Don’t stunt your work!
Read up on the package or catalog the correct spacing.
Prepare each soil for the acidity level plants prefer.
They vary widely. Toes like 5.6 pH. Acidic.
Leaves do not. Get the mix right or the crop fails!
Tomatoes come in either VINES or BUSHES. Read Up!
There is so much to learn. Read, Read, Read.
Tomatoes need to be picked in the early morning
for best taste retention.
Storage methods….more on that later. See:
To begin: Soil Test.
For 1,000 sq. feet, Take about ten soil samples by digging
a small hole about 6 inches down. Scrape a hand amount of soil off.
Mix the 10 samples, and submit for FULL Testing. ie Lead, Arsenic,
other toxic metals, insecticides, pesticides, herbicides, etc.
Also test for “CEC”, soil “type”, P-N-K, Ph, good minerals, etc.
It takes years to properly condition soil, so take your time.
Add worms if you can. Worms are very needed in the soil ecology.
Mushroom Manure or sheep manure are best. No weed seeds in them.
Cow and other types eat the weeds and weed seeds and poop them out.
So if you use cow manure (cheaper), you will spend endless time weeding!
A must to add is seaweed fertilizer (powdered). Micro-nutrients are
found there and are Essential for Health and Life! ie Iodine
Your soil may be too much clay. If so, go find better soil!!
Your soil may be too much sand. If so, go find better soil!!
Your soil may be a clay-sand-loam mix. That we can work with.
What is the Ph? Veggies generally like about 6.
Organic material, wood chips/sawdust/wood ashes, bone meal, lime
are alkaline,raising the Ph upwards-away from what veggies need.
Composted material, manure, peat moss, lower the Ph – ie 5.
Chicken manure especially, and iron sulfate work too.
Run off each year from rain may change your Ph again,
so test it in the fall and spring and add what is needed.
Blueberries, Strawberries, Tomatoes, all like acidic soil
so you may want to make a separate soil area for them.
Rototill all your properly mixes into planned sections.
Ideally, this should be done in the fall.
Make sure your garden has proper slope, drainage, paths, access.
Fencing is needed to keep the rabbits/deer/critters out.
Keep a book of dates to germinate/plant/details/info/harvest/yield
and include all info on soil conditioning, and what is planted where.
Have copies of a MAP of exactly where everything goes!
Whew! What a lot of work, and we are just beginning!
(It does get easier in time)
Most seeds need germination time, then starting time in a pot.
Tomatoes, for example, need 2-3 weeks germination, then planting
in special starter soil ie Potting Soil, which is very loose soil.
From there, they need 25-30 degrees C. or about 80-90 degrees F.
Water lots but don’t drown. Moist soil is best.
High Humidity helps. An enclosed starter tray may be good.
I shrink wrap an area and watch it all grow!
A fan is a must, to help develop a strong stalk/reduce disease.
Not on all the time. Put on a timer for 1-2 hours per day.
12 to 18 hours of sun/grow light, each day is needed.
Re-pot to a larger pot when needed. Tomato roots spread fast!
You will need a lot of room just for tomatoes to grow.
In Canada, this process starts now, March.
In May, begin to “harden” your saplings by putting them outside
in part sun, little wind, protected, when warm enough.
Careful not to overheat them or let them dry out!
Bring in at night or if/when too cool. About 1-2 weeks.
Then you can plant the ones that survive.
I have seen nearly 100% failure at times.
Sometimes the germination failed.
Sometimes having no fan failed the seedlings.
Sometimes the home soil failed too.
Live and Learn.
Many Seeds only last 3 years and then won’t germinate.
Save some of your tomatoes for seeds.
Likewise, let some crops/herbs, go to seed and save them.
Seed saving and sharing is a fun pastime! Label clearly!
There is still much much much more to learn. Read Books/ebooks.
FREE INFORMATION ON STORAGE METHODS FOR VEGETABLES:
Use caution when storing apples with other vegetables as they
give off ethylene gas that causes other vegetables to rot. They
can be stored in tubs with lids to prevent this effect. Choose
varieties that are good winter keepers, like golden russet, Belle
de Boskeep, winter banana, Roxbury and others. Leave the
stems on. Store in plastic tubs with lids. Keep them shallow as
storage too deep will bruise them. Check frequently…one bad
apple rots the barrel!
Can be stored late into the fall and early winter in the garden
under a mulch of insulating material such as straw or hay. If
bringing into the house to store in a root cellar, harvest them
just before they are fully mature in the fall when nights start
dropping to around 30o F. Harvest with roots and store in bins
or buckets of moist sand with a loose lid.
Brussels sprouts can withstand some freezing and can be left in
the garden late into the fall. Or, store them in the root cellar, but
they really suffer if it is not very moist.
If you want to store cabbage you need to grow varieties meant
for storage. These also are more frost tolerant and can be left
in the garden later than summer cabbages. If storing in a root
cellar, it must be very moist. Harvest by pulling up with the roots
still attached and wrap in newspaper and store in crates, or sit in
a bucket of moist sand.
Carrots meant for storage should be planted later in the season
than summer carrots, or be very long season varieties of carrots
that do not become mature until late fall. Can be stored late
into the fall and early winter right in the garden under a mulch
of insulating material such as straw or hay. If storing in the root
cellar, dig before the soil freezes and dry the surface. Remove
the excess soil, cut the stem close to the carrot and pack in leaves
or sawdust or in a bucket of moist sand with a loose lid.
Winter squash curing in a hoop house.
Recommended Storage Temperatures and Humidity Levels
COLD and VERY MOIST (32-40o F, 90-95%)
winter radish (Daikon)
COLD and MOIST
(32-40o F, 80-90%)
COOL and DRY
(32-50o F, 60-70%)
(50-60o F, 60-70%)
Trim off the longer roots being careful not to cut too close to the
vegetable. Shake off the loose dirt. Store the roots covered with
damp sawdust, sand or moss. Celeriac is a good keeper, it is a
vegetable you can count on.
Harvest beans after they are mostly dry on the vine and spread
out to dry for several weeks more. The beans can be removed
from the pods after this drying by putting the pods in a bag and
banging the bag with a bat, then cut a small hole in the bottom
of the bag and the beans will fall out. Or, the plants with the
pods attached can be banged against the side of a barrel and
the beans will fall out. Store in dry containers with tight lids.
Freezing will not harm dry beans.
Harvest garlic when the tops are between a third and two thirds
yellow (in central Maine this is usually early August). Air dry for
2-3 weeks in a warm, very dry place. Cut off the roots and store
in cool, dark, airy place.
If growing leeks for storage, choose a variety that is frost hardy
and harvest late in fall. Pull up with some root and store upright
in bunches close together in moist sand, but be careful not to
let leaves get wet. Can be left in the garden under an insulating
material until the ground freezes. They also can withstand a
freeze and snow and be harvested in January.
Onion varieties differ greatly in their ability to be stored over
the winter. Some will make it no longer than until Christmas
and others can hold well into the spring. Harvest onions after
the tops have fallen over. Onions need to be cured well and the
necks tight and dry before putting into storage. For curing, they
can be spread out on a dry floor in an airy place, or hung up side
down with their tops hanging through slats of something like
pallets. Store in crates or mesh bags in a dry, airy place.
May be stored in the ground covered with mulch and dug and
enjoyed in the spring. Flavor improves with frost. Parsnips keep
well in the ground uncovered until the ground freezes. If they
have been nicked with a shovel while digging, enjoy those soon.
Store unbruised parsnips in damp sawdust.
Harvest after the potato vines have died and there has been a
killing frost. Cure potatoes in a dark place at 45-60o F for 10-15
days, then move to a long term storage site. Store in barrels or
crates in the dark. If they begin to sprout it is a sign it is too
warm, break them off.
Treat pumpkins like squash. Be sure the stem is still intact, as
ones without stems don’t store well and should be cooked and
eaten or frozen.
Shrivel easily. Bury them in damp sawdust, moss or sand. Some
folks use beeswax to cover them and retard moisture loss.
Native Americans called the Jerusalem Artichoke sunchokes.
They keep well right in the ground all winter. Toss hay over the
bed to keep it from freezing and dig until the soil freezes hard.
They will keep in the root cellar for a few weeks in a plastic bag
or in damp sand.
Can keep until spring if they are well stored. However, if
conditions are not right and the potatoes are bruised, they will
quickly spoil. Harvest the crop as soon as the frost has killed the
vines. Dig carefully to avoid nicking or slicing and let air dry for
a day so the soil brushes easily from them. Cure them at a warm
temperature (80 – 85o F) and 90 percent relative humidity for 10
to 14 days. This toughens the skin and improves the flavor. Then
wrap each potato individually in newsprint and store in a basket
in an unheated room at around 50 to 60o F.
Bring in before a heavy frost. Cut off the tops. Store like carrots
packed in damp sawdust, moss or sand.
Winter radish (Daikon)
Trim off the leafy tops and store like carrots.
Harvest when fully mature (thumbnail should not penetrate
skin with moderate pressure). Taste and sweetness is very
dependent on the squash seeds being fully mature before
harvest. Harvest before a hard frost. Leave stem on fruit. Cure
in warm temperature (75-85o F) for about 10 days, then store in
a place with little temperature fluctuation, without letting the
temperature ever drop below 50.
When storing vegetables in moist sand, sawdust, leaves or
moss, be sure to harvest in cold weather and not put in cellar until
temperatures are 40 or below to avoid mold problems.
Storing Fresh Fruits & Veggies – Counter top or Fridge or Pantry?
Fresh Food Storage Tips
• Always discard (compost) any damaged, diseased, or moldy items before storing others.
• When buying prepackaged items, follow instructions on label.
• Fruits that produce ethylene will ripen faster in paper bags on counter top.
• Keep fruits and vegetables in separate areas of fridge.
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